Let me start off by saying it’s a lot harder to write a tutorial than I thought it might be, especially when my photography skills leave something to be desired. I hope the following tutorial for my in-seam pocket mod of the Walk the Plank PJ Pants is helpful, but if there’s something confusing, please comment on this post or on Facebook or however you may feel inclined to contact me (Debbie).
The Pocket
I took the general size of the pocket from a couple of P4P/M4M patterns and inspected the details on Mike’s RTW pants. I liked that they were attached across the top of the pocket to the waistband, which makes it easier to know what side is the front and also keeps the pockets where they should be. I also added length, so that when a phone is put in them, it doesn’t half stick out of the pocket. I kept the pant’s original half inch seam allowance so I wouldn’t have the chance to forget to change at that point.
Here’s a link to a printable PDF for the pocket! It’s not the best quality but it’ll work :).
The Legs
Next I had to figure out how to split the leg into two. This adds basically twice as much (or more?) sewing to the pattern, but useable pockets are always worth it. I measured halfway between the front and back, at each cut length (long, knee, short) and across the women’s rise and men’s rise. Then I connected the marks as much as I could using a straightedge. It wasn’t exact all the way down, but I didn’t really care. After that was just tracing out the pants, adding in 1/2″ seam allowance to my line down the middle. This is the pink/purple line on the images below.
This wasn’t really an exact science. There’s more room in the upper back (booty booty booty) and about even at the hem.
The Construction
- Cut a mirror image of the front, and a mirror image of the back.
- Cut two sets of mirror images of the pockets (I like to keep the same cuts together of these, and make sure they go on the same side of the pants for easier construction).
- Separate the fronts and backs. Put the right front with the right back, and same with the lefts. Put one pair of pocket pieces with each.
- Going one side at a time (I found this made it less likely for me to grab the wrong side), you’ll start the pocket attachment.
- With right sides facing, place the top of the pocket 2.75″ down from the top of the rise and pin in place. (This is if you are using 1.5″ elastic.)
- With a 1/2″ seam allowance, attach pocket.
- Press pocket open, with seam towards pocket. Edgestitch.
- Repeat the other piece of that side. (I started on the left front. So I would do the left back next).
- With right sides facing, lay the front on the back (or back on the front). Pin into place.
- Sew together, pivoting at the top and bottom of the pocket attachment. Serge (or otherwise finish edges).
- Repeat with other leg.
- Follow original pattern instructions until you topstitch down the waistband. (I tend to hem before I attach the legs together – less fabric to maneuver when hemming.)
- Lay the pant down, fronts facing up. Place the pocket evenly along the front piece and pin into place.
- Fold waistband over as in pattern. When you reach the front piece, you will be sandwiching the top of the pocket in at the same time as you finish the band.
- Tada, your pockets are ready!
I wanna know how you managed to serge so beautifully around where the pocket is attached to the pants!! I just made a pair of pants and man the bottom of the pocket attachment is impossible for me.
Stop just before the bottom of the pocket, with the needles down. Raise the foot and rotate the whole item so there’s a straight line including the join. It’ll look a little wonky, but it works. Make sure your foot is back down before starting again. There’s extra “serging” so it doesn’t lay flat, but it doesn’t lay flat on the body either so whatever!